Sunday, November 10, 2013

Juba - capital of the 193rd member of the UN

How to describe Africa's - and the world's - newest capital? Rapidly growing, chaotic, with only a handful of asphalted roads, it has a long way to grow. Nonetheless, you are here, so you have to buy groceries or get some dinner.

SHOP
If you are hoping there are some undiscovered shopping treasures to be found, you may be disappointed. The 'souvenir shops' are tables outside the New Sudan hotel/Le Bistro complex, but basically everything is from Kenya.

VaMP
Depending on which of their two signs you look at, VaMP either stands for Vegetables and Meat Products or Vegetable Meat Pharmacy (no idea why that needs an "a"). Regardless, this "supermarket" has yogurt, Mulino Bianco products, Italian and US dry goods (lots of Divella products from Bari in Puglia), wine, and CHEESE! (After a few months you won't care that it is US$20 for a tiny bit of parmesan. Trust us.) The only of the three markets where you can trust them to charge you the price marked on the product. Takes US$.

JIT
Indian "supermarket" with two locations. Originally known for having better prices that VaMP or Phenicia, but that is no longer really true. Both of JIT's locations are bigger than VaMP or Phenicia. Larger (if not better) selection of wines and liquors than VaMP. Like Phenicia, has a "housing goods section" that sells things like refrigerators for interracial underage gay couples.

Phenicia (sic)
Lebanese run (you would never guess from the name) "supermarket". No alcohol, but good butcher. Watch at check-out; had to correct the instantaneous mark-ups several times (one was a 50% markup over the price stated on the shelf).

BEST OF JUBA DINING

Notos
Modified Greek and Indian food, along with post-conflict pizzas. Pleasant outdoor dining courtyard and the indoor lounge area feels like a break from juba for a g&t, whisky soda, or Tusker while waiting for a table, or instead of dinner. Definitely a top spot in Juba. (Random factoid: the owner is white South Sudanese of Greek descent.)

Le Bistro
@ New Sudan Hotel garden
Hamburgers, pizza, wifi @ 10ssp/30min, FRESH iced tea, iced lattes, fresh juices and more brought to you by the Lebanese/Milanese co-owners. FTV, footie, and music on the screens, no alcohol, the best croissant croissants and cakes in Juba. During lunch or on long weekend "mornings" watch the newbie NGO girls eating salads while trying to dodge older men and concurrently smoozing to get on the good side of donors, not to mention the oh so obvious State Deparment and affiliated contractors in pleated khakis and dresses that have apparently been in storage for a decade or more (can you still buy those things in The Fly-over™?). Best staff in Juba by far. Burger 40SSP, chickenburger 35SSP, cakes 15-20SSP, cookies 5SSP. Open until 10, but more of a lunch spot.

Spice & Herbs
Indian, fairly nice garden area (except for the generators).
Istanbul
This place is a hidden surprise buried in Konyo Konyo (so offlimits after 8 pm) but they have excellent meat, kebabs, and mezze. Turkish owned and run so very authentic. Cater as much to a South Sudanese as an expat crowd, which means prices are great. Ambience not so great - far too much polyester and hideous plastic flowers, but the first taste and you won't notice. Does a daily lunch delivery run to UN House.

Nimule
Off "Lakes Street" heading towards "Cougar Avenue"
Pool and restaurant in this container and fixed build hotel where George Clooney passed thru on some humanitarian tour. 30SSP breakfast buffet (great except fot the instant coffee aspect, and the fact it ends around 10:30 a.m. Dinner buffet Wednesday through Saturday with African, Ethiopian, Thai and Tandoori rotating on the buffet - 65 ssp, 19-22h. Also Indian, pizza, and random post-conflict international menu.

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