Sunday, November 10, 2013

Mission prep all'Italiana

You get the call - two years after applying to a roster and six months after indicating your availability for "immediate" deployment, you get your offer of appointment!

Next stop? Juba? Bangui? Goma? P-a-P? Bamako?

Guess again:  Brindisi, Italy

Yes, all new peace operations staff go "via" Brindisi for Civilian Pre-deployment Training, or CPT, at the UN Global Service Centre, which happens to be located in the up-and-coming Puglia region of Italy (a.k.a. “the heel of the boot”). Unfortunately, Brindisi is not the crowning jewel of the province (see, e.g., Lecce, Salento, Trani, Ostuni).

That said, Brindisi does have (1) a centro storico, or old town, smack on the Adriatic, (2) good food if you avoid the tourist traps, and (3) last shot shopping options before you head to Mogadishu.  Don't forget that Italy has seasons, so you will find few swimsuit or summer gear options in November or winter coats for Mazar-e-Sharif in June.

Along with the little boutiques in the centro storico (which may not exactly help with the practical requirements of mission life, but who am I to suggest you don't need those stiletto heels?), the shopping center Le Colonne has H&M, Zara, Benetton, Sisley, Bata, and ipercoop – an Italian supermarket. There is a city bus line running straight to the mall parking lot (ask at your hotel desk). Further out of town is the second shopping centre anchored by French hypermarket Auchan, which also has a Euronics for electronics and a Piazza Italia next door (think cheap Italian clothes – the 100% cotton polo shirts in a rainbow of solid colours at €6/each are one recommendation).

Pre-deployment shopping lists are very subjective, but as this is Jeffrey’s site, this is Jeffrey’s list (not to say suggestions aren’t welcome in the comments section):

Vape Herbal Salviette Antipuntura (mosquito repellent wipes)
Item Number One on the list - people ask where I get these every time I am deployed. They are brilliant mosquito repellent wipes – so no need to choke the entire dinner table with spray, or smear weird mosquito repellent cremes on yourself.  Passed the test in Guinea-Bissau, Mali, South Sudan, and Timor-Leste, as they should, given that despite the “herbal” moniker they contain DEET. Better cancer later than a terminal case of malaria today.  Also comes in a pump spray. Available at ipercoop.

Quarta coffee
From Lecce, this espresso is relatively inexpensive (under €3 a bag) and competes well with its higher priced Italian cousins such as Illy. If you are a real caffè aficionado pick up a Bialetti eletrikka (yes, it works will all voltages – my travel set is a permanent travel companion) or, if you will have a functional burner, grab a Bialetti mokka. Don’t forget your tazze e cucchiai.

Citronella candles.
Well, yeah. If you forgot yours, you can pick some up in Brindisi (in spring/summer) at ipercoop, Auchan, Leroy Merlin…

Borotalco dry powder deodorant (grey stick with green top).
Some people sweat like pigs, and if I were one of them, I might have found that this actually helps in sub-Saharan heat. Find the scent too baby-powderish generally (prefer smelling like the cologne of my own choosing), but in unrelenting heat surrounded by ‘the great unwashed’ this does the trick.

Decathlon – the French among you will know this store; if you are from Texas think Euro-style “Academy”. Located by Le Colonne, but no sidewalks so a strange walking experience. Some mission favorites:
  • PowerBars (you never know when they may come in handy)
  • €6 solid colour swim trunks
  • New Feel sneakers – you buy the insole separately, the idea being that you can buy 2 or more exteriors and just change the insole. Anyhow, a pair of sneaks in funky colours will run you about €20 or €25 for the water resistant version – I recommend the latter, they are my mission go-to casual shoes.
  • Microfibre towel – dries in minutes, and packs a lot smaller than regular towels. Not as pleasant after a shower as cotton, so my back-up.  

Before you get to Brindisi:
 
Load up on music/movies/TV series
Anything. Really, anything. After a month even the nasty sluttely Kardashians will be entertainment (or at least a reason to hate LA, or just fake boobs and total d#*%head guys). (Non US readers - no, people in The Flyover™ do not live like that - they may be uncouth, but really...)

Mrs. Whites Unstung Hero – Natural Spray AntiMosquito Eau de Cologne
This “Lemon Tea fragrance” is natural – no DEET - so won’t give you cancer. It actually smells like a nice unisex summer cologne and it passed the test in both Timor-Leste and Mali (I forgot to take it to South Sudan and hadn’t found it before Guinea-Bissau). Downside: you have to order it in advance (I get it from Roullier White in the UK) and it comes in a travel-unfriendly glass bottle.

Malin+Goetz Bug Spray
Found this in their boutique in Chelsea, and haven’t tried it out but if you are in NY pick some up – comes in a much more travel friendly plastic bottle than Mrs. Whites, and on-line reviews rate the two equally. Disclaimer: they weren’t testing it in a malaria zone.

Dominica Bay Rum – From the Commonwealth of Dominica, a nice tropical toner/cologne/splash for about $20. I get mine at Orvis, but it is available elsewhere too.

For container living:

Remember trying to make your cinderblock dorm room seem less inhospitable? Multiply that by a thousand and that is trying to sort your container out.
  • Hot plate
  • Pot, skillet (a pot with built in pasta strainer in the lid is golden)
  • Cotton sheets and a light cotton blanket (e.g., Ikea’s cheap-as-chips FABRINA or INDIRA bedspreads, both 100% cotton, and both cheap enough to leave behind )
  • Seat cushion for your folding metal chair
  • Cheap flatware & dinnerware. Again, IKEA bottom of the line is great
  • Kitchen towels & potholder
  • Cheap tablecloth or placemats for your ugly UN-issue table/desk
  • Anything to add a bit of colour to the white metal that is a container.
  • Mosquito net for bed
  • Coffee maker/hot pot
  • Favourite spices or condiments (for me, Knorr chipotle cubes and Zataar)

Juba - capital of the 193rd member of the UN

How to describe Africa's - and the world's - newest capital? Rapidly growing, chaotic, with only a handful of asphalted roads, it has a long way to grow. Nonetheless, you are here, so you have to buy groceries or get some dinner.

SHOP
If you are hoping there are some undiscovered shopping treasures to be found, you may be disappointed. The 'souvenir shops' are tables outside the New Sudan hotel/Le Bistro complex, but basically everything is from Kenya.

VaMP
Depending on which of their two signs you look at, VaMP either stands for Vegetables and Meat Products or Vegetable Meat Pharmacy (no idea why that needs an "a"). Regardless, this "supermarket" has yogurt, Mulino Bianco products, Italian and US dry goods (lots of Divella products from Bari in Puglia), wine, and CHEESE! (After a few months you won't care that it is US$20 for a tiny bit of parmesan. Trust us.) The only of the three markets where you can trust them to charge you the price marked on the product. Takes US$.

JIT
Indian "supermarket" with two locations. Originally known for having better prices that VaMP or Phenicia, but that is no longer really true. Both of JIT's locations are bigger than VaMP or Phenicia. Larger (if not better) selection of wines and liquors than VaMP. Like Phenicia, has a "housing goods section" that sells things like refrigerators for interracial underage gay couples.

Phenicia (sic)
Lebanese run (you would never guess from the name) "supermarket". No alcohol, but good butcher. Watch at check-out; had to correct the instantaneous mark-ups several times (one was a 50% markup over the price stated on the shelf).

BEST OF JUBA DINING

Notos
Modified Greek and Indian food, along with post-conflict pizzas. Pleasant outdoor dining courtyard and the indoor lounge area feels like a break from juba for a g&t, whisky soda, or Tusker while waiting for a table, or instead of dinner. Definitely a top spot in Juba. (Random factoid: the owner is white South Sudanese of Greek descent.)

Le Bistro
@ New Sudan Hotel garden
Hamburgers, pizza, wifi @ 10ssp/30min, FRESH iced tea, iced lattes, fresh juices and more brought to you by the Lebanese/Milanese co-owners. FTV, footie, and music on the screens, no alcohol, the best croissant croissants and cakes in Juba. During lunch or on long weekend "mornings" watch the newbie NGO girls eating salads while trying to dodge older men and concurrently smoozing to get on the good side of donors, not to mention the oh so obvious State Deparment and affiliated contractors in pleated khakis and dresses that have apparently been in storage for a decade or more (can you still buy those things in The Fly-over™?). Best staff in Juba by far. Burger 40SSP, chickenburger 35SSP, cakes 15-20SSP, cookies 5SSP. Open until 10, but more of a lunch spot.

Spice & Herbs
Indian, fairly nice garden area (except for the generators).
Istanbul
This place is a hidden surprise buried in Konyo Konyo (so offlimits after 8 pm) but they have excellent meat, kebabs, and mezze. Turkish owned and run so very authentic. Cater as much to a South Sudanese as an expat crowd, which means prices are great. Ambience not so great - far too much polyester and hideous plastic flowers, but the first taste and you won't notice. Does a daily lunch delivery run to UN House.

Nimule
Off "Lakes Street" heading towards "Cougar Avenue"
Pool and restaurant in this container and fixed build hotel where George Clooney passed thru on some humanitarian tour. 30SSP breakfast buffet (great except fot the instant coffee aspect, and the fact it ends around 10:30 a.m. Dinner buffet Wednesday through Saturday with African, Ethiopian, Thai and Tandoori rotating on the buffet - 65 ssp, 19-22h. Also Indian, pizza, and random post-conflict international menu.